Embracing the Peaks: My First Alpine Climb on Mount Baker

Approaching the final summit

My alpine climbing journey, a path I embarked upon with a heart full of adventure and a soul yearning for the mountains, truly began in the most unexpected of times. I've been an ardent hiker and backpacker for years, with an intrinsic connection to the mountains that took root during my childhood in the Himalayas. Climbing small peaks as a kid, I developed a profound love for these towering natural wonders.

Moving to Seattle in 2013 only fueled this passion, as I found myself increasingly drawn to the rugged beauty of the outdoors. From 2016 to 2019, my interest in mountaineering steadily grew, spurred on by climbing films, encounters with mountaineers, and inspiring trips to Peru and Bolivia. Yet, despite this growing fascination, I hadn't fully taken the leap into alpine climbing.

Then came 2020, a year marked by the Covid pandemic, which brought an unexpected twist to my story. With the city's buzz quieted and the great outdoors beckoning, I saw my chance. I signed up for a guided climb of Mt. Baker with Alpine Ascents International, a decision that would redefine my relationship with the mountains.

The break at Sherman Crater

The experience was nothing short of transformative. Standing atop Mount Baker at 10,781 ft on the 13th of July, 2020, with the world awakening below me at the crack of dawn, I was overwhelmed with a sense of achievement and awe. The journey began in the dead of night at 1am from a camp at 6150 ft, traversing the dark terrain to reach Sherman crater by 4:30 am. At that point I was already feeling stretched and exhausted but an extended break and breathtaking views helped me recover. The crux of our ascent, the Roman Wall, a daunting 45-degree icy slope, was both terrifying and exhilarating. I was to soon find that come down wasn't easy either, lack of sleep, exhaustion and glacier heat were catching up to us. It was a long walk back to camp, and the even longer tread back to trailhead, in all another 12 hours. This was my first taste of the long slog that's called Glacier Mountaineering.

Succesful summit

I was beginning to realize that the challenge, the technical nature of the climb and the opportunity to see the world from a different perspective that was so appealing to me. The sense of adventure, the need for resilience, and the pure connection with the mountains ensured that I was irrevocably hooked. While I found the climb very exhausting, felt underprepared and at times over-the-edge, it was clear to me then – this was just the beginning of many more adventures to come, I already had my sights set higher. This experience would forge an unbreakable bond with the high, wild places of the world.

Alpenglow that has one hooked