Shuksan: Shaping the Alpinist

After a string of scrambles and glacier climbs and endurance-heavy objectives like Mt. Baker and Mt. Rainier, I found myself craving something more technically demanding—something that required more than just putting one foot in front of the other. Mt. Shuksan (9,131 ft), with its stunning alpine lines, rugged terrain, and iconic summit pyramid, offered just that. This wasn’t just another mountain—it was an aesthetic marvel and a technical proving ground, and it marked a step up in my climbing journey.

I teamed up with my friends Steve and Gwen, and we hired Miyar Adventures to guide us on a two-day climb—many typically do it in three. In preparation, we trained at the Marymoor climbing wall, brushing up on rock climbing techniques and learning to rappel under the guidance of our lead instructor. That training would prove crucial.

Day 1 began at the Shannon Ridge trailhead. With 45-pound packs, we climbed 5 miles and gained 4,000 feet of elevation, reaching camp at 6,400 ft in just over 5 hours. The views of Mt. Baker from camp alone made the climb worth it—but the real challenge still lay ahead.

Summit day started at 2 AM. Headlamps lit our path across the Sulphide Glacier, the stars above and the glow of the summit pyramid ahead keeping us motivated. We reached the base of the pyramid at 5:30 AM. From there, the real fun began—an exhilarating 500-foot rock scramble up the pyramid that took about five hours, followed by a careful 3.5-hour rappel descent. We returned to camp by 5 PM and continued all the way back to the trailhead by 10 PM. It was a 20-hour day with 9.5 miles of travel and 3,000 feet of elevation gain.

The climb tested everything—endurance, glacier travel, rope skills, and alpine rock movement—but it also brought immense joy. Shuksan was my first real taste of what it means to be an alpinist: not just physically strong, but technically competent, mentally resilient, and well-prepared. It combined all the skills I’d been gradually building and showed me how powerful they could be when brought together in one objective.

One of the moments I’ll never forget came just before sunrise, looking up at the summit pyramid glowing in the alpine light. And later, standing on the summit, above the clouds, with layers of ridgelines stretching to the horizon—it felt like I had stepped into another world. A world few get to experience, but one I knew I wanted to return to again and again.

Mt. Shuksan didn’t just challenge me. It inspired me. It solidified my transition from a hiker and glacier climber to someone with the aspirations—and beginnings—of a true alpinist.