Becoming an Alpinist: Skills Upgrade – Part 2

After months of winter hiking, weighted pack training, and a foundational rock course, it was time to take the next big leap: a full six-day Alpinism 1 course with the American Alpine Institute (AAI)—one of the most respected technical climbing schools in the U.S., known for developing competent, self-sufficient climbers. This was my real entry into the world of alpine climbing.

We met bright and early at AAI’s headquarters and gear shop in Bellingham, WA, to sort out our gear. Due to post-COVID precautions, we all drove separately instead of piling into the shared van. I remember feeling a mix of anticipation and nervous excitement as we headed out toward Mazama. The first three days were spent at various crags around Mazama, where we practiced rock climbing, trad placements, rappelling, and multi-pitch systems. At Phun Rock, we top-roped a variety of routes, built anchors, and reviewed key skills that would set the stage for our first alpine climb. Each night, we regrouped and planned our next steps—just like we would on a real expedition.

On Day 4, the guides took us to Washington Pass, home to some of the most iconic alpine climbing in the Pacific Northwest. Our objective: the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell Mountain. This 4-pitch 5.6 climb rises about 500 vertical feet after a steep 3-mile snow approach and final gully climb. It was my first true alpine rock route—a brilliant mix of snow, steep hiking, and vertical granite. I loved it. The combination of endurance, technical ropework, and the feeling of being embedded in the mountains felt exactly like what I’d been chasing. The summit was narrow and exposed, but breathtaking, revealing the jagged ridgelines and endless objectives of Washington Pass. My mind was already racing with ideas for future climbs.

With our technical alpine route behind us, the final two days would be a student-led objective. After poring over guidebooks, our group settled on Eldorado Peak—a striking glaciated summit known for its knife-edge finish. Early season conditions and a washed-out road added an extra 3 miles to the already challenging approach, turning it into a 25-mile, 6,000-foot objective over two days.

At 3 AM the next morning, we drove to Marblemount to grab permits. I’ll never forget that drive—watching the North Cascades come alive at dawn, I had one clear thought: this is where I want to be. After parking as close as possible to the washed-out trailhead, I knew we needed to move fast. Leaning on my hiking and scrambling background, I took the lead and set a brisk pace.The approach included a raging river crossing via a log, a relentless 1,500-foot ascent through steep forest, and then the transition to snowfields. After navigating a 4th-class gully and gaining the Eldorado Glacier, we reached camp at 6 PM—exhausted but excited for the summit push.

The next morning, we roped up at 5 AM. I led our rope team, with a guide at the back, navigating crevasse zones and heading for the East Ridge. Though the terrain wasn’t difficult, the fatigue from five previous days and poor hydration caught up with me—a strong reminder of how preparation impacts performance. But the highlight of the climb was still ahead.The final push along the knife-edge summit ridge was unforgettable. With steep drops on either side, we short-roped our way up. I felt a pulse of fear and thrill as I led our team across—hyper-aware, deeply present, and alive in the moment. Everyone summited. Everyone made it down safely. We were tired, proud, and more experienced than when we started.

This course marked another level-up in my journey. It wasn’t just about climbing—it was about planning, pacing, route-finding, risk assessment, and leadership in the alpine. The six days with AAI helped solidify the foundation of my alpinism journey, and confirmed: this is just the beginning.